Support – Roller / Dingo

Contents



1. Getting Started


Both the Roller and the Dingo are 100% rebuildable, high performance mechanical mods of moderate-to-high complexity. As such, they are suitable for experienced, capable vapers who:

  • possess a good understanding of the nature of mechanical mods, and
  • are able to quickly identify the particular characteristics of each device in order to get the most out of it.

Mech mods are sophisticated, enthusiast-oriented vaping tools. By nature, a mechanical mod requires:

  • Proper handling.
  • Frequent maintenance.

Proper handling guidelines are specific to each device. To help you get up to speed with your new Roller / Dingo, we have written up a quick reference of 10 Important Tips, which also includes some more general, essential information about mech mods and vaping gear:

#1: Do not remove / exchange the main tube or extension that screws onto the metal housing when an atomizer is mounted on your Roller / Dingo.

The switch assembly of the Roller / Dingo is locked in place by the tube mounted directly under the housing. To ensure it’s where you want it to be, always unscrew your atomizer before exchanging tubes.

#2: Do not remove the connector or main tube without cleaning the area around the pole screw from any leaked juice.

The liquid sealing grommet under the 510 connector will do its job only if the connector is pressing firmly against it. It keeps e-liquid out of the switch assembly, so never remove it!

#3: If you need to adjust the pole adjustment screw down too low, remember to remove the o-ring from the pole screw head.

The pole screw head is quite brittle — over-tightening it against the o-ring may cause it to break, since it is not designed to endure excessive stress from below. The o-ring around the pole screw is not needed if you need to adjust the pole low, for example when using the recessed connector supplied with your Roller / Dingo.

#4: Always screw the tube that goes onto the metal housing all the way in.

This ensures that the switch housing is high enough to prevent button jams and keeps sufficient pressure against the liquid-sealing grommet (located under the 510 connector). If your button grinds against the delrin ring around it with the 510 connector / tube firmly tightened, you most likely have a very tight delrin ring installed – this may happen if you got a replacement switch housing with an older unit. Feel free to remove it if you have to – its purpose it purely cosmetic.

#5: Eliminate voltage drop on your mod.

To ensure that no power gets lost on the way to your atomizer, you need to:

  • Always adjust the pole screw of the Roller / Dingo high enough to ensure good contact between your mod and your atomizer!
  • Keep the spring shiny clean and, if necessary, stretch it back to shape.
  • Always ensure that the battery is firmly squeezed by the spring / tube / cap of your Roller / Dingo – bad battery pole contact is the #1 cause for voltage drops when using springs in mods.
#6: Invest in tools and backup equipment.

Measuring your resistances is critical to prevent damage and accidents from short circuits. Protected batteries and resettable fuses are also a must for testing. Always test that new coil with a protected battery or fuse, even if you get a correct open-circuit resistance measurement. Putting power through it may reveal an entirely different story than what your ohm-meter tells you. Keep a few spare cartos around for testing – they may not vape as much as a 1 Ohm coil, but they will tell you if your mod fires. And, last but not least, get a 510-to-510 voltage measurement tool.

#6: Invest in knowledge.

Before carrying out voltage drop measurements, learn some basic facts about voltage drop and batteries. And check out Tip #5 again.

#7: Wrap coils that your batteries can handle and don’t go cheap on batteries.

Don’t go below 1 Ohm unless your battery is happy about it. Even good IMR batteries will at some point get stressed / damaged with use. Replace your batteries every 6 months and don’t trust labels blindly – a label is easy to fake. 16340, 14500 and 18350 batteries should not be used with sub-ohm resistances, with the exception of very good, high-discharge 18350 batteries, which are still borderline for sub-ohm vaping.

Don’t go cheap with batteries and chargers and always watch out for expensive fakes. Keep at least one protected battery aside for testing. Do not trust heavily short-circuited batteries even if they appear to work. Don’t power your mods with anything else than 3.7V batteries.

#8: Watch what you connect on top.

Atomizers with badly designed poles and off-shelf center post screws won’t cut it, even if they cost $200. The positive pole of your atomizer should be machined smoothly. Using off-shelf screws as electrical contacts is asking for trouble: Rough atomizer poles will quickly tear the plating on your mods’ pole screws and may cause overheating. Wire ends should be properly stabilized / fixed on properly designed contacts, especially when using resistance wire that heats up. Unstable wire ends will cause voltage drop and misfires.

#9: Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you.

It’s not bulletproof just because it’s mech. A Roller / Dingo can handle hard drops when assembled just fine, but you can’t expect a thin, threaded tube edge to survive a a hard drop unscarred. If you are clumsy, go for something heavier!

Always remember to lock your mod when carrying it in a pocket – the #1 cause for contact damage is overheating / arcing caused by accidental, repeated switch activations at a very low force (for example when forgetting the mod unlocked in a pocket, or when sitting on it by accident).

#10: Maintain the switch contacts of your mods.

All make-break (push-button) contacts on mech mods must be routinely cleaned to remove dust and moisture. If e-liquid gets into the switch assembly, disassemble the switch and clean the contacts right away!

Remember to re-fresh the silver-plating of your mod’s contacts once in a while! With use, the silver plating layer on them will start to wear off – don’t let that happen! Take the contacts of all your mods to your local jeweller’s and ask for a thick layer of pure silver at least every 5-6 months.

If left unmaintained for a long time, or if dust enters the switch assembly, the contacts of your mod will start to overheat and eventually get damaged / tarnished. For safety reasons, the switch of the Roller / Dingo is designed to fail at sustained temperatures above 150*C, to prevent the heat from reaching the battery.

Remember that all make-break switches must be operated above a minimum force to ensure a long life. The switch on the Roller / Dingo should be pressed with a force equivalent to 500-700 grams, which is still quite low. Use a kitchen scale to get an idea of how much that is.

2. Assembly / Disassembly Guide


To perform maintenance to your Roller/Dingo, follow our Roller/Dingo Assembly / Disassembly Guide.

3. Notes on Switch Use and Maintenance


Before using your Roller/Dingo for the first time, it might be a good idea to go through our Notes on Switch use and Maintenance, which apply to all mechanical devices.

4. Basic Facts about Voltage Drop and Batteries


To get the most out of any mechanical mod, some basic knowledge of electric circuits and batteries is absolutely necessary. Here’s some Basic Facts about Voltage Drop and Batteries that you should know when using a mechanical device.

5. Basic Facts about Sub-Ohm Vaping


Sub-ohm vaping is a gateway into the most technical aspects of vaping, which can be very enjoyable and rewarding only with the necessary technical knowledge, experience and dedication. Before experimenting with sub-ohm resistances, it is recommended to go through some Basic Facts about Sub-Ohm Vaping.

6. Troubleshooting


  1. The device is making a rattling sound.
  2. The switch is misfiring / The contacts inside the switch are tarnished.
  3. The button is getting stuck when pushed.
  4. The connector gets un-screwed along with the atomizer.
  5. Voltage drop issues.


Rattling Sound

The rattling sound that you hear when shaking the device is perfectly normal!

If you disassemble the device, you will notice that the moving contact rod that’s mounted on the axle of the switch is designed to “float” in its slot. The “seesaw” shape of this contact, along with its free-floating design help distribute the applied force evenly among the fixed hexagonal contacts, which gives the device its distinct, touch-sensitive firing ability.


Switch Misfires

The switch will start to misfire if liquid penetrates the switch assembly. This may happen if you remove the 510 connector or unscrew the main tube without first cleaning all leaked juice from the area around the pole adjustment screw.

If liquid penetrates the switch assembly, it will result in heavy arcing inside the switch, which will quickly cause the contacts to tarnish (turn black).

The contacts may also get tarnished if dirt, dust, or machining leftovers are preventing the switch contacts from touching each other firmly. A quick inspection of the switch around the contacts will quickly reveal the cause of misfires / tarnishing. In most cases, simply disassembling the switch and giving all components a thorough clean with alcohol should be enough.

If the contacts are tarnished, they should be cleaned with a cream suitable for silver-plated jewellery. Do not scrape or sand the contacts to clean them, as this will damage the silver-plating layer on them.

Keep in mind that misfires may not be directly related to the switch – for example, bad contact between the atomizer pole and the mod’s pole screw is a common cause for misfires. Intermittent heavy voltage drop issues may also be perceived as misfires, so it’s definitely a good idea to also check the Troubleshooting section dedicated to voltage drop issues, especially if the contacts of your mod appear to be shiny clean.


The button is getting stuck when pushed

If you have disassembled the Inner/Main Tube of your Roller/Dingo, you need to make sure that it has been re-assembled correctly. The button should always be centered in the hole of the switch housing – so that it can be pushed without grating against the washer around it. Note that operating the mod without taking care to follow these simple instructions may cause damage to the switch or the mod due to arcing.

The quickest way to resolve this is to unscrew the tube from the metal housing, and then screw it back in while holding down the button. Alternatively, press the button and give it a tug to the left so that it doesn’t jam against the washer around it. These adjustments should be made with your atomizer detached from the unit!

Make sure that the brass/alu reinforcement ring is always mounted on the back of the switch assembly. If you take out the reinforcement ring, the switch assembly will be pushed down when you mount an atomizer — as a result, the button will get stuck when pressed and the atomizer will not have proper contact with the mod, causing heavy arcing between the adjustable screw and atomizer pole.

It has come to our attention that some second-hand units have been sold with the reinforcement ring removed. Take note! Never operate the device without it!


The connector gets un-screwed along with the atomizer

Every component on Roller/Dingo is repairable / replaceable including the 510 connector. To prevent it from coming off along with your atomizers:

1) Don’t remove the large rubber liquid-sealing o-ring beneath the 510 connector.
2) Always tighten the 510 connector firmly on the switch housing with the help of a small coin.
3) Don’t over-tighten your atomizers on the connector. Overtightening your atomizers will prematurely destroy their threads and might slowly cause damage to the threads of the adjustable atomizer pole screw of your Roller.

Important: Some repairable atomizers, even from reputable manufacturers, come with oversized, non-standard 510 male connectors, sometimes almost 0.1mm larger than the size defined by the spec.


Voltage drop issues

Some voltage drop is normal, depending on the capabilities of the battery that you use. Excessive voltage drop can be traced to 4 possible causes:

1) The pole adjustment screw is not making good contact with the atomizer.
2) The hot-spring is heavily oxidized, collapsed, or not pressing against the battery firmly.
3) Your atomizer resistance is very low and/or you use a stressed or low-quality battery.
4) The switch is damaged or dirty.
5) The bottom cap disk is not tightened well, or not pressing against the battery firmly.

1) Always adjust the pole screw when exchanging atomizers! Unscrew it as much as needed to ensure good contact with your atomizer. If your atomizer has a shallow positive pole, install the supplied o-ring under the pole screw head of your Roller / Dingo. This will prevent the pole screw from getting screwed too deep when mounting your atomizer. Another quick way to get the same result is to wrap some no-res wire under the pole screw head.

2) The spring is made of brass and will start to deform when a short circuit happens and your battery starts to heat up, effectively opening the circuit. When the spring is oxidized or compressed / stressed, there will be a considerable contact resistance which will be translated into voltage loss and heat, even under normal operating conditions. Therefore, if you don’t have any other means of short-circuit protection and need to use the spring, it will need to be kept in place and shiny clean and frequently stretched to make firm contact with the battery.

When not using the spring, remember to remove the black delrin washer from the bottom cap, to allow contact between your battery and the metal disc. Voltage drops are also often traced to a very low spring force. When using a Roller with 18500/650 batteries, make sure that the telescopic tube is firmly tightened against the spring / battery. When using a Dingo, some performance can be gained by adjusting the bottom cap disc deeper, which increases battery / spring pressure. Alternatively, you can remove the spring completely and carefully adjust the bottom cap until it’s tight against the battery.

3) When vaping with a very low atomizer resistance (high current) and use a low quality or stressed battery (abnormally high internal battery resistance), there will be an excessive voltage drop in the battery itself, which you will not be able to measure in open circuit conditions. Keep in mind that a stressed battery under load will always consume some of its own power, which will translate into a reduced voltage on your load. Read more here.

4) Following the industry-standard at these power levels, the contacts are plated with a thick layer of silver, which possesses self-cleaning properties at mid/high currents. The result is that, even with heavy use, the contact areas will remain shiny clean, even when the areas around them start to oxidize. It is very unlikely that the switch will be the cause of voltage loss, unless i) the plating is scratched, or ii) the contacts don’t touch each other properly. When the contacts don’t press against each other well, the contacts may become resistive, which will result in misfires and / or voltage drop. This can only happen if there is dirt or tiny delrin particles inside the switch, or if you use a very low force when pressing the button (for example, if you accidentally sit on the mod for a while). If you open the switch and the contact surfaces are shiny clean (shinier than the area around them) it means that the switch is perfectly fine. If the contacts are tarnished (black), you will need to give the switch a good clean and if necessary have the contacts re-plated.

5) RO40+ and DI40+ units have an adjustable-height bottom cap disc. If the disc is not tightened well, it can cause an increased voltage drop on the mod. The disc can be tightened by inserting a hex key in the bottom cap vent. Alternatively, when adjusting the cap disc deeper, ensure that it is pressing firmly against the battery, by tightening the retractable tube (Roller) or adjusting the cap as far as needed (Dingo).


35 Topics discussed.

  1. Just received my Roller, love the look, love the craftsmanship. A couple questions, any eta on T2′s? Can I use 18490′s and a Kick without the T2? A cosmetic question, I ordered the SS-IM, in the photo that has the SS-M and SS-IM side by side, the SS-IM appears to be a ‘gun metal’ color, while the SS-M looks to be more of the traditional ‘stain-less steel’. While my Roller doesn’t look quite as bright as the pictured SS-M, it’s nowhere near as dark as the SS-IM. Any way to confirm which model I received?

    • Hello pbeam! Please note that the ice matte finish is a dynamic finish and it gets darker over time. Parts that appear to be different, will eventually look almost identical.
      SS-IM is definitely not close to gun metal, however is sure gets significantly darker after some days of use and keeps on getting darker over time.

  2. I run my atomizor around .3 and have batteries to support this. Problem is every so often I still get shocks / hot spot on the outside of the mod (sometimes button, sometimes other places — fairly random). I’ve now read that there is a good chance the spring has some part in this. Do you have any recomendations for converting it to springless operation? it seems like because it can telescope it should be no problem.. If this is NOT a legitimate option — which of the springs you offer will likely serve me best? I have the stock one currently but assume silver or rhodium plated might be better?

    Thanks in advanced — the mod hits like a dream besides this tiny issue. I should mention that I have read the above information and a large number of the questions posted below, but did not find an answer to this.

    • Shocks / heat / sparks on the outside are usually caused by dirty threads or thread wear / burrs. It always helps to clean all threaded parts with a toothbrush and a cleaner suitable for stainless steel.

      The spring would be to blame if you get heat around the bottom cap of the device, but at 0.3 ohms you shouldn’t be using the spring at all. See this post for details: http://www.atmizoo.com/blog/notes-sub-ohming/?lang=en

  3. Hi, i just bought a roller mech mod and i had it for awhile now. my question is the body or tube gets really hot and i dont know what to do ive cleaned it and still nothing.. Please help

    • Hi Jesse,

      You will need to determine exactly which part gets warm, in order to track down the cause.

      If it’s the battery that gets hot, then it means that your battery can’t handle the resistance of your atomizer, either because the resistance is too low, or because the battery is stressed / is low quality / needs to be changed.

      If it’s a connection on the device that gets warm, you should look at the threads for burrs, dirt and visible signs of overheating / charring. A dented / deformed / dirty thread may overheat if your resistance is very low.

      You might find this handy, too: http://www.atmizoo.com/blog/notes-sub-ohming/?lang=en

      The lower your resistance, the more you need to apply this knowledge to your vaping habits.

    • Thank you Atmizoo for replying back asap. Im using the SONY 18650 2100mah 30A battery, anyways i tracked down the source of the heat. I quickly unscrewed the Roller mech mod tube and it seems like the heat or hot source is coming from the spring. Maybe its time to get new springs haha, i just wanna thank you for replying back it means alot knowing that your customer service is beyond EXCELLENCE

    • You are welcome, Jesse – by the way, you might find this useful:

      http://www.atmizoo.com/blog/notes-sub-ohming/?lang=en

      Scroll down to section 3, where you can find some information about the spring when using low resistance atomizers. Bottom line, if the spring is not well-maintained and tensioned, you might be better off without it.

  4. I was wondering about sub ohming and thermal shock. I replaced the battery spring with a rhodium spring and I’m still receiving some thermal shock. I am using a .41 ohm dual coil magma paradigm. Could I remove the spring and not receive any thermal shock? Thanks.

    • Unfortunately not! Switches can be quality-controlled reliably when sold in a pre-assembled state. This also allows us to offer them at a low cost *and* make constant refinements to the production process of the individual components.

  5. Hi guys, I bought a used Dingo from a friend (which was working fine the day before I got it), I bought a Roller tube from you guys so I could use 18650 batteries but I can’t get the thing to fire… I’m using (very good quality) 2000 mAh batteries, is that likely to be an issue? They work fine on my VAMO 5 but nothing’s happening when I try them in the Dingo/Roller…

    Atomiser is a Kayfun Lite running at 1.8Ω…

    Another issue I had was not being able to get the plastic washer that lies under the switch to sit properly, it keeps popping back up… Any tips?

    Thanks in advance, J

    • Hey Joe,

      Make sure that the washer is not blocking the travel of the button – remove it completely if necessary.

      Also, since this is a used unit, it might be a good idea to disassemble and examine / maintain the internals of the switch:

      http://www.atmizoo.com/blog/notes-switch-use-maintenance/?lang=en

      Finally, make sure that you have form pole screw & spring contact and that the spring itself is not collapsed!

  6. Hello? I would like to know if its possible to use a 18650 battery with a kick, using 3 extension caps. Thanks in advance!

    • Hi Javier,

      Yes, it’s possible, but not really recommended due to the large number of connections between the tubes. Depending on the batteries that you use and the length of the Kick, 3 extensions might be a bit longer than ideal, but they will work.

    • We recommend the AW 18350 IMR.

      Flat top batteries work fine with the Roller / Dingo, too!

  7. Hello, i’m having issues getting a kick to work in my Roller. I have tried a genuine kick and a knock off kick, neither will work and I just can’t seem to figure out why not..

    using an 18350, I have no issues with my “69″ mod and a kick and, the kick fits snugger in my Roller than it does in the 69… I’ve cleaned all the threads thoroughly and, removed the bottom spring. it just won’t fire… I’ve read about others using a kick without the T2 kick ring? it’s not the end of the world but, I just wish I could figure out why it won’t fire with a kick. :)

    • Have you removed the delrin washer from the bottom cap?

      Your battery should also be able to pass through the bottom cap ring threads to make contact with the disc.

      It’s just a matter of mechanical contact, so if you take a good look at all the parts to see if proper contact is made when they are assembled together, you’ll definitely be able to track down the cause.

  8. Im finding that i have to set the button on my roller slightly off of the on position. On the on position in wont fire and ont he off position it wont fire so i have to set it inbetween. The button is correctly positioned on the device. any help? :)

    • I have opened up the switch and my contacts are nice and clean, i cant figure this out

    • Can you double check that:

      i) the ball bearing is correctly in place and the switch clicks as you twist the axle,
      ii) all contacts are clean, including the contact rod
      iii) the contact rod is clean and free to move / fall out of the axle slot (not fused in-place) and
      iv) the button is mounted correctly in relation to the ball-click positions?

      If all this is correct, then I can’t think of anything else that could cause this behaviour!

    • i’d like to thank you for all your help. the silver coating must have been damaged so i turned the contacts around for now until i can get them recoated

Start New Topic.